Winter Wonderland

When we left the United States a bit over four months ago, I imagined we would be skiing somewhere in Europe in December. In fact, one of the suitcases that we have been lugging around is full of nothing but heavy winter clothes, gloves, ski pants and jackets. I never imagined that December would beContinue reading “Winter Wonderland”

Eternal Flames of the Chimera

I can’t tell if Turkey is an amazing place to be at this moment in time or not. Unlike Albania and Serbia, pandemic rules here are quite restrictive. There is a curfew in place and a complete ban on dining at restaurants. On the other hand, the sky is sunny, the sea is warm andContinue reading “Eternal Flames of the Chimera”

Thankful for Turkey

A couple of weeks ago we were planning to fly to Slovenia, where we would spend the Thanksgiving holiday and from there go on to Italy where we would be for Christmas and beyond. However, after a surge in Covid-19 infections and tightening restrictions in these two countries I changed our flight at the lastContinue reading “Thankful for Turkey”

A Library in Cyrillic

There’s no better way to enjoy a miserable day than a good book or two hundred. Belgrade, across the river, disappeared almost completely under a shroud of fog that has not lifted in days. Because the kids work on American time, we go to sleep late and wake late. But in the low light ofContinue reading “A Library in Cyrillic”

The Coronavirus Prophecy

Twenty years ago a fortune teller in Cambodia read my palm and told me that I would die when I’m forty. I don’t believe that nonsense, but I recently turned the prophesied age and, walking home from a bakery in Belgrade a couple days ago with a birthday cake for my daughter, the coronavirus nearlyContinue reading “The Coronavirus Prophecy”

The Promised Land

Life in Serbia is so pleasant that we are considering staying here even though it was initially just meant to be a quarantine stop on the way to the European Union. Although I miss being by the sea, life along the Danube means nature is always nearby. Besides that, the food here is terrific andContinue reading “The Promised Land”

Three Hundred Years of Quarantine

Social distancing along the border market is enforced by two rows of palisades separating buyer from seller. Money is disinfected in vinegar and guards patrol in order to observe that no physical contact take place. This is the scene at the Sava River as described by the famous Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen in hisContinue reading “Three Hundred Years of Quarantine”

An Avalanche of Errors

Although they are exceedingly cautious for young adventurers, my kids will follow me off a cliff if my water landing is smooth enough. All to often though, my running jump ends in a belly flop and I’m left wondering if I should follow their leads instead. It’s common to feel a bit of self-doubt whenContinue reading “An Avalanche of Errors”

The Albanian Napolean

Visiting Albania is like walking over a fossil bed; there is so much history that one does not even realize is there hidden below each step. The region was lost in a remote corner of the Ottoman Empire for centuries, isolated because of its mountainous terrain and mostly off limits, a blank section on theContinue reading “The Albanian Napolean”

Update: Police and Masks in Albania

I stopped wearing a face mask or even carrying one with me. For the past couple of months, my mask was the snorkel mask I wore almost everyday while exploring the fascinating underwater scenery on Albania’s Ionian coast. Until yesterday, I almost forgot about the pandemic completely. My family and I left the United StatesContinue reading “Update: Police and Masks in Albania”