The Sleepy Old Capitals of Bosnia

A drive through central Bosnia passes through dark forested hills and mountains, farm villages and cold water streams. We watched the scenery pass by through the steaming windows of our crowded taxi. This was the hottest day of the summer heat wave in Bosnia and the four of us in the back seat could onlyContinue reading “The Sleepy Old Capitals of Bosnia”

The Mountain Above Sarajevo

A maze of small walking streets consist of shop after shop selling teapots, shawls, lamps and Turkish delight. A sixteenth century covered bazaar is now a shopping mall and a hotel is built over the ruins of the old caravansarai. The Ottomans founded this city in the middle of Europe and it became an importantContinue reading “The Mountain Above Sarajevo”

Pilgrimage Lands

The tranquility and peace of the remote pilgrimage sites in the hills of Bosnia and Herzegovina contrasts sharply with the bombed out buildings and bullet scarred alleys of the cities, but in some ways these serene places of belief are connected to the wars that have afflicted this region for centuries. Bosnia and Herzegovina isContinue reading “Pilgrimage Lands”

Jumping from a Lost Bridge

The city of Mostar is just a couple hours away from Trebinje, but somehow it feels like a different country. Here Latin letters replace Cyrillic and the Islamic call to prayer replaces church bells. The skyline of Mostar at sunset is a silhouette of minarets. While Trebinje has the feel of a backwater, Mostar isContinue reading “Jumping from a Lost Bridge”

Earthquakes and Ambulance Rides in Bosnia and Herzegovina

The small town of Trebinje in the Serb Republic of Herzegovina in Bosnia and Herzegovina of the former Yugoslavia seems like a place where not much happens. This is a place where people spend their time sipping coffee in the park and going for evening strolls along the river. This has been how we haveContinue reading “Earthquakes and Ambulance Rides in Bosnia and Herzegovina”

Pirates of the Adriatic

It’s difficult to tell the location of this town but for the pleasant salty breeze off the Adriatic Sea. The call to prayer from the many mosques in town takes turn with the tolling of bells from the church in the olive grove next to our house. Our view over the town and sea isContinue reading “Pirates of the Adriatic”

The Rugs, Jellyfish and Cats of Istanbul

Istanbul is one giant city spread across two continents. With a population of over fifteen million people, the city extends for miles both east and west of the narrow Bosphorus Straight, the dividing line between Europe and Asia. Sultanahmet is old Istanbul, the walled city that existed here since the time the city was namedContinue reading “The Rugs, Jellyfish and Cats of Istanbul”