Phnom Penh, Cambodia 2023 vs. 2000 I first arrived in Phnom Penh in February of 2000 in the back of a pick-up truck and covered head to toe in red dust from a 12-hour ride along the rough dirt track that served as Cambodia’s national highway. The city then had the feel of a wildContinue reading “The Transformation of Phnom Penh”
Tag Archives: war
Chasing Chernobyl
After ten rough hours on an old, clattering plane, I touched down in Kiev drained of energy. Unrelenting engine noise had bombarded my eardrums the entire flight and now, in the relative quiet of Kiev street traffic, my ears were ringing in a way that was significantly more uncomfortable than the noisy flight. I’d comeContinue reading “Chasing Chernobyl”
The Sleepy Old Capitals of Bosnia
A drive through central Bosnia passes through dark forested hills and mountains, farm villages and cold water streams. We watched the scenery pass by through the steaming windows of our crowded taxi. This was the hottest day of the summer heat wave in Bosnia and the four of us in the back seat could onlyContinue reading “The Sleepy Old Capitals of Bosnia”
The Mountain Above Sarajevo
A maze of small walking streets consist of shop after shop selling teapots, shawls, lamps and Turkish delight. A sixteenth century covered bazaar is now a shopping mall and a hotel is built over the ruins of the old caravansarai. The Ottomans founded this city in the middle of Europe and it became an importantContinue reading “The Mountain Above Sarajevo”
Jumping from a Lost Bridge
The city of Mostar is just a couple hours away from Trebinje, but somehow it feels like a different country. Here Latin letters replace Cyrillic and the Islamic call to prayer replaces church bells. The skyline of Mostar at sunset is a silhouette of minarets. While Trebinje has the feel of a backwater, Mostar isContinue reading “Jumping from a Lost Bridge”
City of Snakes
At one point in time the leaders of two countries sat down and signed a legal document, shook hands and then got started on some fully legal ethnic cleansing. To be exact, the plan worked out to be a religious cleansing more than ethnic. Millions of people would be forced out of their homes andContinue reading “City of Snakes”
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