Journey to a Mediterranean Wetland Forest

We got lost pretty quickly in the dark as soon as we left the Tirana airport and I quickly learned that my rental car stalls in 2nd gear if it drops below 20 mph. Also, locals will pass you on the sidewalk if you go less than 10 mph over the speed limit.

People are exceedingly friendly and helpful though. When we asked for directions, not only did we get directions, but the gas station attendant called our hotel and insisted they come show us the way and apologized profusely that he couldn’t leave his post and make sure we got there alright. After a night of recovering and enjoying our uncovered faces, we drove to a small country town in the forest called Divjakë where we are staying for a couple of days in an orchard house we are renting from a very friendly family with an energetic Siberian Husky. Tola’s face lit up when they told us to take anything from their garden and when we didn’t immediately do so, they picked a basket of assorted fruits and vegetables for us.

The terrain on the edge of town changes suddenly from sunny farmland to dark forest. Hidden in the thousands of acres of willows, oaks and Mediterranean woodlands are swamps, salt marshes and reed beds that house numerous endangered species such as the golden jackal, roe deer and red fox.

After talking with a park ranger, we drove deep into the park along a washed out muddy path that wound through the trees and often diverged into two or three. I stopped at one such fork and considered turning back when a car came from the left fork. The driver stopped and rolled down his window. “The road is out up ahead,” he said. “Follow me!” With some difficulty I turned the car around while he waited and then followed. After some time we emerged onto a sandy beach on which we drove for a while and then entered the forest again. Finally we arrived at an expansive lagoon where flamingos wandered and pelicans patiently watched the waters. The other driver waved to us goodbye as he got a beer and fishing pole out of his trunk.

On the outskirts of the park, but still deep in the forest, we stopped at a restaurant where when we asked for a menu the waiter said, “no menu, just food.” We agreed and the food just kept coming: fresh Sea Bass and prawns, tzaziki, vegetables and more. The owner brought flowers to our table on horseback and, when we couldn’t eat anymore, asked us, “What’s wrong? You don’t like it?”

We like it.